Post by casias on Aug 17, 2014 13:02:42 GMT -5
The front hubs on the 1998-2004 2wd Dakota trucks can be rebuilt, rather than replaced. The advantage is the ability to use better Timken or SKF bearings at a fraction of the cost.
Step 1 - Remove the hub from the spindle
Using a 35 mm socket, and an impact or huge breaker bar, remove the nut holding the hub on the spindle.
Step 2 - Remove the bearing from the hub. There are two types of common hubs. The chinese hubs that are frequently used as a replacement are heavier, and look like the one on the left. The bearing is probably not removable. Usually the bearing just breaks apart, and leaves the sleeve and race stuck inside. I have managed to get some of them apart. The stock ones always come apart.
The replacement hub is much more robust than the original cast hub. But it is much heavier.
Use a socket and press to push out the old bearing. It will always come out in two or three pieces.
The original Dodge bearing is a Timken, as seen here.
Step 3 - Replacement bearings
As seen here, NAPA sells a house brand, which is actually an SKF bearing, part number FW115. The Timken is part number Set 49
Use an appropriate size something to push the bearing into the hub. It should only contact the outside of the race, and not the inner bearings. 76mm is the exact size.
Step 4 - Don't forget the snap ring. I have seen 3 types. All are easy to remove. The one with the holes is the easiest to insert. I use a big pair of needle nose pliers with the tips ground down to fit the holes. Snap ring pliers will bend unless they are really heavy (expensive).
The most common reason that I have seen for frequently destroying front bearings is that the toe is out of alignment. If you replace the front bearings, you probably need a front alignment as well.
Step 1 - Remove the hub from the spindle
Using a 35 mm socket, and an impact or huge breaker bar, remove the nut holding the hub on the spindle.
Step 2 - Remove the bearing from the hub. There are two types of common hubs. The chinese hubs that are frequently used as a replacement are heavier, and look like the one on the left. The bearing is probably not removable. Usually the bearing just breaks apart, and leaves the sleeve and race stuck inside. I have managed to get some of them apart. The stock ones always come apart.
The replacement hub is much more robust than the original cast hub. But it is much heavier.
Use a socket and press to push out the old bearing. It will always come out in two or three pieces.
The original Dodge bearing is a Timken, as seen here.
Step 3 - Replacement bearings
As seen here, NAPA sells a house brand, which is actually an SKF bearing, part number FW115. The Timken is part number Set 49
Use an appropriate size something to push the bearing into the hub. It should only contact the outside of the race, and not the inner bearings. 76mm is the exact size.
Step 4 - Don't forget the snap ring. I have seen 3 types. All are easy to remove. The one with the holes is the easiest to insert. I use a big pair of needle nose pliers with the tips ground down to fit the holes. Snap ring pliers will bend unless they are really heavy (expensive).
The most common reason that I have seen for frequently destroying front bearings is that the toe is out of alignment. If you replace the front bearings, you probably need a front alignment as well.