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Post by sbatiste92 on Nov 21, 2016 1:08:51 GMT -5
I am part of the LSX buy sell trade on facebook and sometimes there is a good deal. i will just go with an LS1 intake, because all the guys with the LS6 intake magically want $400+ which isnt worth it to me. pulled the trans and transfer case the other day but forgot to post it. by far my least favorite part of this whole project so far.
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Post by sbatiste92 on Nov 27, 2016 21:54:19 GMT -5
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Post by casias on Nov 29, 2016 21:39:50 GMT -5
Nice work. I always try to tell people that the adapter plates I sell get you close, but there is quite a bit of fabrication and creativity requires. So you ended up using a regular LS truck pan?
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Post by sbatiste92 on Dec 30, 2016 1:03:39 GMT -5
Well I'm a month behind on getting back to you, but yes I did end up using a regular truck oil pan. Once I got the engine sitting in there properly everything lined up fine with about 1/4"-1/2" between the oil pan and front axle. I'm at a bit of a stand still right now until I get myself a car Intake, wiring harness, and get the transmission put together. I'm deploying again for 3.5 months. Really doesn't help my project.
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Post by sbatiste92 on Jan 8, 2017 4:07:41 GMT -5
Not sure if anyone has Been following this project but I've been moving very slow due to funding and constantly being deployed. I'm about to deploy for 2 more months but hopefully after that I will be making some good progress. Today I ripped the main engine harness out of he durango. After a little plug and unplug trial and error, I figured out what's needed to run the PCM, then I took all the plugs for the sensors off except for the coolant temp and oil pressure. I plan to use these somewhere in the LS block to work with the factory gauges. It turned out to be a success. After deployment I'll get the stand alone harness built for the 5.3 and Integrate it into the Durango. This is the harness upon removal Here is the pile of wiring I removed Here is the final product and all that's required to keep everything going.
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Post by casias on Jan 9, 2017 7:54:50 GMT -5
I'm glad you posted this. This is probably one of the most common questions I get. For general information, keeping the gauges only works for 2000 and older as far as I know. Another guy on here tried to keep gauges on a newer Dakota R/T, but couldn't get them to work.
2000 Durango ZL1 AWD 1999 Dakota R/T 6.0/6l90
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Post by sbatiste92 on Jan 11, 2017 5:13:11 GMT -5
There were only 2 issues I ran into, but I expected some sort of issue. The dodge transmission harness is all built as one unit and reads trans temp internally, so my "trans temp" light is on on the dash. I will track down the wires for that and run a resistance test, then try a resistor so the dodge pcm is tricked into thinking I'm up to temp. I also cut something somewhere that removed power to my fuel sending unit, and it was all working before I cut stuff so I'll track that down and fix it. As of right now I have used pin outs and removed every sensor wire except for the hot and signal for the oil pressure, and the coolant temp. The dodge oil pressure sensor will go in the LS block in place of the original. The LS computer doesn't need to see oil pressure to run. Just the driver does. And if I use the stock oil pressure sending unit, the dodge dash will ding at me if the gauge drops low and will Illuminate the "check gauges" light. Plus I have an aftermarket one too. As for coolant temp, the LS computer does use that when distinguishing between closed loop and open loop operation and then obviously for fan control. But there's a port in each head so I just need to get the adapter to go from metric threads to 1/8" NPT.
What's important when doing this is making sure that you leave the correct wires hooked up to power on the dodge PCM. It's very possible that I will go back and use the dodge engine harness to integrate some parts of the LS harness so that I can use the factory fuse block. For example, instead of putting a starter relay and fan relay on a standalone harness, I'll use the wires for the corresponding functions that were built into the main engine harness already installed, then connect the wires from the LS computer to the factory dodge harness so the LS computer can trigger the stock dodge relays and fuses.
In the harness I did leave a couple 5V reference signals available just in case I have to add something back in later. The dodge harness will be routed with the LS harness for fitment purposes. Or I may build one harness. I'll keep you posted.
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Post by agent84 on Jan 13, 2017 5:50:00 GMT -5
There were only 2 issues I ran into, but I expected some sort of issue. The dodge transmission harness is all built as one unit and reads trans temp internally, so my "trans temp" light is on on the dash. I will track down the wires for that and run a resistance test, then try a resistor so the dodge pcm is tricked into thinking I'm up to temp. I also cut something somewhere that removed power to my fuel sending unit, and it was all working before I cut stuff so I'll track that down and fix it. As of right now I have used pin outs and removed every sensor wire except for the hot and signal for the oil pressure, and the coolant temp. The dodge oil pressure sensor will go in the LS block in place of the original. The LS computer doesn't need to see oil pressure to run. Just the driver does. And if I use the stock oil pressure sending unit, the dodge dash will ding at me if the gauge drops low and will Illuminate the "check gauges" light. Plus I have an aftermarket one too. As for coolant temp, the LS computer does use that when distinguishing between closed loop and open loop operation and then obviously for fan control. But there's a port in each head so I just need to get the adapter to go from metric threads to 1/8" NPT. What's important when doing this is making sure that you leave the correct wires hooked up to power on the dodge PCM. It's very possible that I will go back and use the dodge engine harness to integrate some parts of the LS harness so that I can use the factory fuse block. For example, instead of putting a starter relay and fan relay on a standalone harness, I'll use the wires for the corresponding functions that were built into the main engine harness already installed, then connect the wires from the LS computer to the factory dodge harness so the LS computer can trigger the stock dodge relays and fuses. I did all this with my 02'. The sensor grounds were all shared running to a blk/blu wire in PDC. Its labled as connector C220 in my model, but I think its C106 in yours. I also used the Starter relay, Fuel pump relay, and fan relay in the dodge PDC to keep it neat, and for ease of install. It really worked out great for the fan as I ended up using a MkVIII fan which draws a ton on start up, and dodge wired their A/C fan circuit with a 50amper and like a 10 or 12ga wire. Perfect. I was then able to wire in the 4L60 P/N switch to the dodge starter relay, so It only starts in the correct gear. Lots of LS swap guys don't do that I've found and their cars start in any gear... a few of my friends included...smh. I also was able to wire in the reverse power from the switch as well so my reverse lights work....again, many swap guys don't bother... Remember, GM uses the hot side of the relay coil to control, power and prime the fuel pump, (pin 86 iirc) so don't use the dodge power for it, but do use the dodge ground. You can find those wire at a connector behind the driver side wheel well, and trace them up to the PDC. I ended up pinning them to that white connector ( C106/C220) along with the wires from my P/N switch since I had so many open pin locations after I stripped out the dodge engine harness. The Pre 2001 daks also dont have a digital trans selector either, as along with the trans light issue you ran into, I also had where my gear indicators on the dash would constantly scroll. All the idiot lights worked, but the gauges wouldn't, though if you unplugged them, they would go to max value as they should.. I made my own cluster at that point. The part of the swap your at is actually pretty easy, just time consuming, and messy..lol GL... nice swap
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Post by koukimonster on Jul 14, 2017 17:49:09 GMT -5
Need to make a few minor adjustmants. But I set the motor in yesterday. Unfortunately the truck intake will not fit a Durango without cutting the overhanging portion of the firewall, so I will have to go to a car Intake. In the picture below, the intake is actually sitting an inch and a half forward from where it bolts down. But nevertheless here's my project. [/URL] [/quote] I'm heading in this direction with my quad cab 4x4. Was just curious if it's possible to hammer in the firewall enough for the truck intake or is it not even close?
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Post by casias on Jul 14, 2017 18:06:04 GMT -5
In this case you are better off with a car intake. If you have the older cathedral port heads on your LS, you can get intakes for less than $200.
2000 Durango ZL1 AWD 1999 Dakota R/T 6.0/6l90
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