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Post by sbatiste92 on Jun 17, 2016 3:40:51 GMT -5
Hey guys. its going to be a little while before I get my project underway, but I thought I would go ahead and start a thread so I can start picking people brains. I'm brand new to LS engines but very mechanically inclined. I'm a do-it-yourself-er and after building a 346 with magnum top end and fuel injection in my 96 Dakota, and then a built 360 in my Durango, I've decided to become a traitor. I found a good deal on a 2003 LM7 with everything except a PCM and I'm picking it up week after next.. I wanted an LQ4, LQ9 or LY6, but seeing as I live in Hawaii, I was lucky to even find that. (Was the only vortec engine I found on Craigslist on the entire island of Oahu) I plan to do a 4L60E and keep my NP242 transfer case. Luckily there is already a build going that will help me a ton with this build.
My first question I have right off the bat, and Scott I know you have some experience with this, can I switch to a GEN IV PCM for tuning expandability? Can I just move the knock sensors (or crank sensors, whichever it is) on the GEN III block, get the right reluctor wheel, and the right throttle body and pedal setup, then modify the harness? Or is it more work than what is beneficial? Should I just keep the GEN III stuff and go drive by cable?
My]2nd question, would you build your own harness? or is it really that complicated and truly worth it to buy a prebuilt stand alone harness at the price of $550?
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Post by casias on Jun 17, 2016 6:54:10 GMT -5
My knowledge is very limited when it comes to wiring and tuning. First thing I would do is contact a tuner who works with LS swaps. Not every LS tuner wants to work with swaps, because the mix of parts causes issues.
Run this question by them, and they can tell you what can and can't be done.
As far as converting the harness, I know there are tons of videos and threads about this. I think it is pretty easy, if you are keeping the same harness with the same engine. Otherwise, it begins to get tricky.
Have you found someone in Hawaii to tune this for you? If not, the guy I use here does remote tunes and really knows his stuff.
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Post by sbatiste92 on Jun 18, 2016 3:33:21 GMT -5
Scott, I haven't contacted any shops out here but Im making friends with the car guys out here a little at a time. They love how my Durango cams right now but it makes bad power. $3000+ in a motor and I got smoked by a Nissan 370Z from a roll.....twice. Hence the current trade happening. I'm finding where all the hidden stuff is on the island and who knows their stuff about tuning and cars but the import crowd is huge out here. So I will branch out but I may still contact you when the time comes because I see what you've already accomplished so your guy obviously knows what he's doing.
Today was a good day. I found a 2005 4L60E with 90k miles and picked it up for $200. Another lucky find being on an island where sought after parts aren't plentiful. Seemed like a good deal to me. Everything on it seemed intact and it was fairly clean on the outside, we will see what the inside looks like when I get there. It's a 2WD but the Novak transfer case adapter kit comes with a new output shaft to match up anyway. So it will be fine.
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Post by casias on Jun 18, 2016 8:03:10 GMT -5
I didn't know Novak made an adapter for 4l60 to 231/242. Should have known, though. They have really good stuff.
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Post by sbatiste92 on Jun 18, 2016 11:11:38 GMT -5
I checked their website and it's not a cheap kit. But it says it's for a Jeep 231/242. Is that going to be different than what I have?
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Post by casias on Jun 18, 2016 12:26:13 GMT -5
No. They are the same. Probably want to call and talk to them about the Dodge vs Jeep transfer case, with regards to the input shaft. If you remember from my build, I found that Dodge used the old thick bearing with the new version of the planetary gear, which caused me to try about 3 different combinations to get it right.
They were helpful, and glad to offer what they knew over the phone.
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Post by sbatiste92 on Jun 18, 2016 15:43:49 GMT -5
Well turns out since I have the R/T version, I have the NV244. So far all I can find is that the difference is that it's electronic shift and full time AWD. Can't find much info but supposedly the input spline count is the same as the 242. So hopefully the Novak kit works. Still gathering info on input shaft bearing thickness
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Post by casias on Jun 19, 2016 17:33:51 GMT -5
I only own 1999 and 2000 Durango and Dakota's, because I like the older style dash. I think in 02 or 03 they switched from the NP242 with the manual shifting stick on the floor to the NP242 with the electric push button. Is that correct?
Anyway, that is the only difference between the two, as far as I know. Doing a parts search, all of the parts are interchangeable, so the Novak kit will work. Whether the shifting will be locked out if it can't see the ecu and transmission is going to be the question. I did look around, and couldn't find a good answer.
The NP242D (D for Dodge) out of the slt and rt durango and dakota's are super cheap though. I think I paid $165 for mine shipped to my door. You would need the floor console with the stick, though.
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Post by sbatiste92 on Jun 21, 2016 2:50:10 GMT -5
I don't know about every 02-03 so I can only speak for my Durango. It is an 02 and the transfer case (which I had to verify by getting underneath and looking) is a 244. But that's specific to the 02-03 R/Ts to the best of my knowledge because of the all time all wheel drive. It may also apply to the AWD "quadradrive" jeep Cherokees in 03-04. My Durango had a selector knob (currently the home for a wideband) below the air vent just to the right of the steering column. My options were AWD, 4HI, and 4LO. When you switch the knob, it then sends a signal to the Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM; located behind passenger kick panel) to shift the trans electronically. The reason for that is because the control module takes into account vehicle speed and RPM and all that before it makes the shift. And when it's feeling happy, it will shift.
With all that being said, I'm fine with keeping this transfer case because all the electronics are there, so I can use them. I just need to make sure that the bolt pattern on the 244 is the same as the 242.
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Post by casias on Jun 21, 2016 15:55:57 GMT -5
"they switched from the NP242 with the manual shifting stick on the floor to the NP242 with the electric push button". Sorry. When I wrote this, I meant NP244 with the electric push button.
The bolt patterns for all of the NP cases are the same, it's just the input/output shafts that can be different. Should be no problem then.
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Post by sbatiste92 on Jun 26, 2016 21:22:44 GMT -5
Here is the Durango getting the swap.
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Post by sbatiste92 on Jun 26, 2016 21:24:01 GMT -5
Got a 4L60E out of a 2005 Tahoe and cleaned it up.
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Post by casias on Jun 27, 2016 11:54:06 GMT -5
Nice starting point. You won't have any trouble fitting that trans in.
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Post by sbatiste92 on Jul 1, 2016 1:54:10 GMT -5
Was able to get out today and go pickup the motor. (Paid for it but didn't pick it up yet). im getting a lot of feedback about going boosted since I already own 90% of the parts and I've already bought all the expensive stuff. But I also just snagged a factory set of rods, flat top Pistons, wrist pins, and locks from an L33. For $220 ($52 of that was shopping to Hawaii) But this is a very low mileage motor and after pulling one of the heads i see that it's extremely clean and the cylinder walls are perfect which makes me want to throw in a cam and leave the bottom end alone for now. I did get a cam off the same guy I bought the motor from. It's slightly used but in perfect shape. It's the comp cams XER273HR. Specs are 224/230 duration @.050" and .581"int/.588" exh lift. Grabbed it for $100 and the best part, it has no overlap and and is cut on a 114LSA so I can use it for N/A or Boosted. Apparently it came from a procharged car. There will be more pictures to follow tomorrow.
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Post by casias on Jul 1, 2016 3:03:21 GMT -5
Man you score some deals. That cam may be a little large for a 5.3, but for that price I would give it a try. I can see your thoughts of swapping in the l33 rotating assembly to pick up a point of compression, but I probably wouldn't do that. The LS engines are so efficient, and you are going to have so much more useable power, I would leave the engine at 9.5 and drop that cam in. You will make somewhere around 480 crank hp, from a 5.3!
Just remember to upgrade springs, pushrods and trunions on the rockers. That cam will give them a workout.
And, at 9.5 you will be able to run 87 octane NA!
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