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Post by casias on Jan 30, 2013 19:51:24 GMT -5
That's a great deal on the LM7, and I am assuming 4L60?
Think of it as a placeholder, although they can make great power.
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Post by captkyler on Jan 31, 2013 0:12:19 GMT -5
I found the dash command app that does all this too. 50 bucks, but seems to have a delay problem. Anyway step one is to get this dodge engine out and Chevy one in Before I worry about all that. Thanks for the Pin out. I think I'll be calling Current performance.
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Post by casias on Jan 31, 2013 9:25:41 GMT -5
Getting the engine in is key. Keep me posted on Jared's information.
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Post by captkyler on Jan 31, 2013 19:46:08 GMT -5
He said he can do it. I just picked up a 04 5.3 with 115,000 on it complete motor all accessories plus trans for $700
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Post by casias on Feb 1, 2013 7:37:08 GMT -5
Wow. That is about as cheap as it gets. If you find another one like that, you should sell it on ebay for twice that.
Is that a 4L60 trans?
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Post by captkyler on Feb 5, 2013 21:21:03 GMT -5
Im back. The forum locked me out for a couple of days for some reason. I returned that cheap engine I bought because it was all sludged up among other problems I discovered. The seller was cool about it. He has about 10 other engines that he was selling and did not want bad publicity. Anyway I bought a new engine. 06 5.3 engine harness Trans, DBw pedal and tac module, plus harness for that and the gauge cluster for $1450. All with 56,000 orig miles!! I think it's a good deal!? The new engine came from a local salvage yard. It is still in the vehicle. I went and disconnected the main harness and pedal stuff so they would not cut it. They have 2 more 5.3s they are 99 models and are priced at 600 per engine.
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Post by casias on Feb 6, 2013 7:33:36 GMT -5
Sounds like really good prices for these at your local yards.
The 5.3 are more available, and can really scream with a turbo. Figure, push boost to like 30 psi, then if it blows, swap out the longblock and try again.
Have you decided on cam, fuel and turbo yet?
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Post by captkyler on Feb 6, 2013 18:02:11 GMT -5
I will be doing the 02-04 zo6 cam. Valve springs. Arp rid bolts and head studs, MLs head gasket and possibly a ls2 intake and 90mm drive by wire throttle body. I was also thinking of doing the trick performance turbo manifold It seems to interfere with the high Mount ac though. I already have a 70mm turbo that I can run and upgrade to a 76 later. Fuel I was thinking of doing the in tank 255 With a inline pump as a booster. Turbo boost will be near 10 lbs for now.
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Post by casias on Feb 6, 2013 18:26:12 GMT -5
I posted pics of the Kwik AC, that is high on the right side. I think the R4 compressor takes up less space over the header in the same position. The sanden is allegedly a better compressor, though.
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Post by captkyler on Feb 7, 2013 9:32:11 GMT -5
Do you have to use the high mount position or is the factory location good to clear the Dakota frame?
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Post by casias on Feb 7, 2013 18:07:06 GMT -5
Do you have to use the high mount position or is the factory location good to clear the Dakota frame? I think the 5.3 is the same as the 6.0, the compressor is on the lower passenger side. It contacts the front crossmember, and the rear of the compressor interferes with the passenger motor mount. The bracket attaches just ahead of the motor mount in this pic (the lower bosses at the level of the oil pan)
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Post by captkyler on Feb 8, 2013 8:58:54 GMT -5
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Post by captkyler on Feb 10, 2013 11:20:56 GMT -5
Here's the h3 oil pan that the s10 guys use. I might see if it fits so I do not have to notch my frame.
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Post by casias on Feb 10, 2013 19:18:30 GMT -5
I think the Holley 302 would be more likely to clear without notching. I would love to see if this is possible. At this time, it was easier for me to locate the engine where I wanted it, and modify the frame, than wait for a pan that wouldn't work. The front of the pan near the oil plug is where it hits. The sump on this pan is only 7.72 and nearly perpendicular to the engine. Here it is on a motor It is likely to clear. And it is about $365.
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Post by casias on Feb 10, 2013 19:28:36 GMT -5
Here is the truck pan. The bump on the front of the sump is where it hits the crossmember. It hits about where the big blue spot is Here is the pan without the blue spot. Compared to the holley oil pan
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