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Post by casias on Sept 17, 2016 3:43:02 GMT -5
I have a Black Magic Extreme www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-180 tucked into the original electric fan location behind the shroud. Fits like it belongs there, and has no trouble cooling the LS with the stock Durango radiator, although I spent a lot of money on this fan when the same radiator had trouble cooling the MAGNUM motor. He set the fan for 180 on the ECM, but it didn't come on, so he triggered it to "full on", and it still didn't come on. No surprise with this garbage harness. Just another thing to fix. This moron probably wired the fan trigger to the radio volume control or some dumb shit like that. On my LS truck, I have a Lincoln Mark VIII/Ford Taurus fan like this Dorman 620121 www.amazon.com/Dorman-620121-Radiator-Assembly%252c-2000/dp/B016UZ8WAI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474101328&sr=8-4&keywords=620121, although I bought it used on ebay for like $75. It has no trouble cooling the LS engine. I didn't even modify the fan shroud, so it only covers about 80% of the radiator. So there is absolutely a difference between what it takes to cool an LS vs what it takes to cool a MAGNUM. Here is a picture of the LS truck radiator and Taurus fan (the copper tubing is my diy oil cooler, HA!).  |
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Post by sbatiste92 on Sept 18, 2016 0:18:50 GMT -5
You always crack me up. That wiring harness of yours has been a nightmare and waste of money.
Thank you for all that info. The fan is a little bit pricy but the measurements on it should be perfect for a stock radiator and at 3300 CFM it should more than do the trick.
My radiator in the Durango cracked earlier this week so I have to get a new one anyway and don't wanna fuss with custom mounting an all aluminum one. But in traffic I can't keep my 360 under 210-220 with a 9 blade mechanical, heavy duty fan clutch, electric fan, and 160 degree thermostat. I ended up punching the center out of the thermostat and just using the outer ring which gives me a 1" orofice and it helped some as well as an external trans cooler.
Another question I have is how to route the crossover lines that go on the heads. I saw something about it going to the throttle body and I'm just confused about what those crossover lines do and how to connect them, and if the front and back should all be connected, since my engine didn't come with any.
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Post by casias on Sept 18, 2016 8:01:49 GMT -5
Older LS engines have 4 steam holes, one on each end of each cylinder head. Newer ones have the back holes plugged with a rivet. The steam holes allow for hot coolant and steam to travel from the highest point in the cylinder heads back into the pressurized side of the cooling system. The steam lines you use depends on the intake you choose, but they all connect and run to the radiator. Vehicles equipped with LS engines have a nipple on the pressure side of the radiator to connect. For me, I use a radiator hose adapter with 1/8 npt and a brass nipple on the upper radiator hose, and link everything into that.   And here is a sneak peak of my next project. Finally getting back to the turbos for the truck.  |
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Post by sbatiste92 on Sept 18, 2016 23:52:30 GMT -5
Alright thank you. That helps. Atleast now I know what I need to do with that steam line setup.
As for the new setup, that's gonna be badass. Twin turbo 6.0 is gonna be nuts
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Post by casias on Sept 19, 2016 5:55:01 GMT -5
Looking forward to extracting all of the power from the Durango. In the meantime, it went on its maiden voyage on the trail, promptly got stuck, and had to be recovered by a very helpful guy with a winch. Thanks to this member of the Sons of Sumter Jeep Club for being int he right place at the right time. Next update, I think I need a winch and mud tires.   |
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Post by casias on Sept 25, 2016 18:18:21 GMT -5
Funday Sunday project: I need to mount a fuel pressure sender on the fuel rail, but no one makes AN4 female to 1/8 NPT female adapter. The LS dakota got a hobbled up 3-piece adapter that cost way too much money for what it does. So I decided to fabricate my own adapter from a very inexpensive AN4 female to AN4 male pressure port adapter. Initially, I planned on capping the AN4 male end, but it was too long to fit under my engine cover. So I cut it off, tapped it for 1/8 NPT and added a brass plug from Lowes. Now I have the option of straight or 90 mounting location. LSDAK 3-piece adapter.  Started with this.  But it wouldn't fit under my engine cover.  Cut the male end off.  1/8 tap.  Drill it out with appropriate size drill bit. In this case, 21/64 drill bit.  Tap, thread in 1/8 brass plug. Done.  |
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Post by casias on Oct 20, 2016 17:51:36 GMT -5
I am not sure how many people are still following my Durango build. No video, but I do have updates.
I took it for front end alignment and had him bring the front down level with the rear by adjusting the torsion bars. This placed the steering at neutral again, so it drives really nice. The rear disc conversion is always a huge improvement on these, and the stopping is pretty well balanced. But... I am planning on adding hydroboost soon.
Finished up the exhaust. I used 2 1/2 mandrel bend, with Hushpower mufflers and turndowns. It sounds pretty good. No drone, and not too loud. This will be a horsepower restriction above about 500 hp at the crank, but it is unlikely this engine will turn that high of an rpm anytime soon.
Went for the second (third?) round of tuning with CHENRY Motorsports. It was breaking up on acceleration, but wasn't showing a lean condition on the wideband or detonation. We started with 14.5 degrees of initial timing, and stopped there for now. Based on the advice of the internet, I used TR6 plugs and closed them from .038 to .030. Turns out, that was a bad idea. After swapping in a new set of TR6 plugs, gapped at 0.045 (yes, that's right), all of the stuttering and popping went away.
And it made and estimated 634 lb/ft of torque. Exactly where it should be with the LS3 cam and stock pulley on the blower. And that is about 80 more lb/ft than a ZL1!. For a comparison, the LSA cam (and ZL1 cam) is a really, really mild 0.480/0.480 198/216, whereas the LS3 cam is 0.551/0.551 204/211. While I like the LS9 cam with its 0.558/0.558 211/230, the LS3 was FREE! This engine loves to breathe, so eventually it will get an LS9 cam. Just want to test the drivetrain for a few months first.
And that's about it. Drives like a dream, pulls hard, and sounds pretty good. What more could you ask for?
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Post by sbatiste92 on Oct 30, 2016 2:05:57 GMT -5
Glad to see this thing working out so well. Cant wait to finish my build and report my results. hope to see a couple more videos of the ZL1 Durango before its all over with.
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Post by casias on Oct 30, 2016 8:12:15 GMT -5
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Post by casias on Oct 30, 2016 12:52:14 GMT -5
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Post by sbatiste92 on Oct 30, 2016 14:31:35 GMT -5
It looks good. Thats the same pod i have in my durango. but i lost all my pictures because my phone got ruined. i wish i had known you were gonna go with a pillar pod. In my durango, i switched out the tan pillars for black ones from a dakota. theyre slightly different, but i got them to fit and clip in, so my next project is to try a dakota triple pillar pod in my durango. i'll have to be the guinea pig for this one.
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Post by casias on Nov 18, 2016 18:16:47 GMT -5
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Post by sbatiste92 on Feb 12, 2017 1:06:30 GMT -5
That is good to know...... With the speed sensor being in the transmission and not the transfer case would work well for the older 231 case (88-92) They have a cable driven speedometer. So my thinking is, the transmission sensor would supply what the LS computer needs for vehicle control, but with the mechanical hookup on the transfer case, that could continue to run the factory Dakota speedometer. Off hand, would you know if the 4L60E and 4L80 4wd transmissions have the speed sensor as well? Very, very old post, but just in case anyone else reads through this, the 4L60E and 4L80E have the output speed sensor (aka VSS, vehicle speed sensor) in the tail shaft housing for 2wd applications, and on the ouput shaft of the transfer case for 4wd applications. |
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