verz
New Member
Posts: 15
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Post by verz on Sept 17, 2012 11:02:00 GMT -5
Hi names Aaron and I have a 99 reg cab Dakota im swaping. Ive always loved these trucks since the Rt model first came out and this yellow one used to tear up the streets back when I was in high school. My plan is a 6.0 with cam and bolt ons, a t56 and using some speedhut gauges with their GPS Speedo to help cut down on the wiring. Ive already stripped down the Dakota harness to control just the body functions and just began mock up last night. Anyways here are the pics of so far My ugly truck 99 Trans am seats My makeshift wiring workshop haha Friends 5.3/t56 used for mock up
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Post by casias on Sept 17, 2012 15:30:58 GMT -5
Nice job. Are you fully installed on brackets?
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Post by casias on Sept 17, 2012 15:37:19 GMT -5
This is my mock up motor on 8mm steel adapter plates. The truck intake may have to be shaved with a flap disc (1/2 inch or so). So far, this motor packages in pretty nice. Good luck, and keep us posted.
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verz
New Member
Posts: 15
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Post by verz on Sept 17, 2012 16:02:19 GMT -5
Brackets arent in yet as we ran out of daylight but everything is in position were we want it to be able to weld up the mounts. I went with car shop universal cut/weld ls swap mounts so I can place it exactly where I wanted and felt its a cleaner look than adapter plates. Yea the truck intake is just a bit too tall but plan on taking a small ball pin and some body hammers to get the clearance at the cowl but helps my friend does body work and can make it pretty. Heres the mount kit I got, well built and nice hardware included
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Post by casias on Sept 17, 2012 17:46:45 GMT -5
I have seen those kits. They are super stout for a weld-in kit. You can see the blue tape above my motor where I intend to clearance that little shelf on the firewall if I have to.
LS3 intake would fit no problem, but for this project I want to stay in a $5000 budget for motor and trans, and they can be pretty pricey.
As you know, my goal is to develop a "no-cut" kit for the average guy. After many, many changes to the adapter plate pattern, I think I am ready to take it to the cnc shop.
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Post by casias on Sept 17, 2012 17:48:57 GMT -5
Is your motor sitting a little higher than mine? I am looking at the driver side heater core.
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Post by jsmith564 on Sept 17, 2012 20:17:29 GMT -5
sweet ride bro. like the trans am seats
in the beginning I to planed on using aftermarket gauges, but they can get expensive. I figure the factory gauges can salvaged with a little know how to get them wired up... anyway.
so far so good. a lot further along then I am that's for sure.
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verz
New Member
Posts: 15
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Post by verz on Sept 17, 2012 20:22:04 GMT -5
The cutting isnt so bad, grinder and a cut iff wheel makes quick work but the weldering is where my friend again comes in handy haha. mine does look a bit higher but I wanted plenty of oil pan clearance so theres about 1/2in between it and the steering rack. Yea I though of a car intake but as you mentioned that costs more money and I too want to keep it low cost and since I have $300 into the truck so far including mount kit I think im in line for that.
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verz
New Member
Posts: 15
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Post by verz on Sept 17, 2012 20:23:40 GMT -5
Preciate it and not much farther along as you have a motor and im using a friends power train until I save up haha
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Post by jsmith564 on Sept 18, 2012 8:44:31 GMT -5
A motor that needs a rebuild.. I have two car intakes and a truck intake.. i have options! Gotta love chevy..
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verz
New Member
Posts: 15
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Post by verz on Sept 19, 2012 22:03:49 GMT -5
Well if I inherit this motor like it looks the fact it has no rods or pistons and in desperate need of a hot tank doesnt help haha but hey least im getting it mocked and can plan forward from here.
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Post by casias on Sept 26, 2012 19:49:19 GMT -5
We are behind on videos, but I have some pics as "proof of concept". The pro's are as follows: 1) Fuel sytem upgraded with Walbro 255 HP, kit is available. All OEM appearance. No serarching for parts. Fuel pump comes on with key on position, remains on, with continuous return to prevent pump cycling and early demise. 2) LS starter is removable easily, with exhaust manifolds on, can by triggered from start position on key or set up with super-cool big red start button like the super cars. 3) Use truck manifold for higher low end torque and cost savings or LS3 manifold for better appearance and higher RPM HP. 4) Driveline angle and centerline are very good. Able to accommodate trucks that are stock or lower. Lifted trucks will have the same problems they always do, but I won't get to a 4X4 version for probably a year. The cons; 1) Truck exhaust manifolds require grinding both manifold and upper control arm on passenger side. I could have set the motor higher, but other problems developed. Grinding can be handled by 4 1/2 angle grinder with cut-off wheels and stone in less than 30 minutes. 2) Had to notch crossmember. Very easy with above grinder and cut-off wheels, 10 minutes. Welding can be accomplished with 120v mig, or mobile welding services are available on craigslist. 3) Had to cut trans tunnerl for 6LXX transmission. Smaller 4LXX transmissions should fit fine. I don't have one to mock up. 4) Engine perches had to be notched on both sides. Easy to do with above grinder and cut-off wheels. 15 minutes. See photos. Scott
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Post by bndmotorworks on Sept 27, 2012 16:09:55 GMT -5
Witch crossmember did you have to notch and why?
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Post by jsmith564 on Sept 30, 2012 0:10:22 GMT -5
Sure looks pretty
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Post by casias on Oct 3, 2012 19:59:56 GMT -5
Posted a few new videos. The truck is complete. Driveshaft will be ready Monday, then off to the shop for wiring.
Scott
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