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Post by jsmith564 on Oct 24, 2012 16:37:07 GMT -5
Iirc the hemi is a tight fit, maybe thats why it's not popular. Its worth the effort to see what would and wouldn't work i suppose. You probably saw the right up where this one fella with a red quad cab installed a hemi. It was also 4x4 I'm pretty sure.
Whats the timeline of wiring for that puppy? Dying to see it.
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Post by casias on Oct 26, 2012 8:45:32 GMT -5
Well, I think the only real attempts at Hemi in a Dakota have shown that the dimensions are OK. But like most of these projects, the people doing the work only have one goal --- GET IT IN!. They cut and paste until it sort of fits, then they run into the wiring issues, become bogged down and frustrated. And everybody thinks they are going to take a junk dakota, junk motor and make a dream machine. Then they try to reuse as much junk as possible to save a dime. i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac327/Dodgef25/Hemi%20Dakota/DodgeDakota57Hemimotor016-1.jpgi912.photobucket.com/albums/ac327/Dodgef25/Hemi%20Dakota/DodgeDakota57Hemimotor024.jpgi912.photobucket.com/albums/ac327/Dodgef25/Hemi%20Dakota/DodgeDakota57Hemimotor008.jpgBut these images show a very similar dimension to the LS. Motor plate adapters, stock mounts, and similar configuration. The approach is always the same. 1) Bare block or mock-up. 2) Stripped clean engine bay 3) Motor, trans and ECU, with harness that is completely stand-alone. 4) Adequate fabrication shop. 5) Get the idea of junk swapping out of your head. These projects are never cheap. The clearance of the crossmember is exactly the same as the LS, except the LS pan sits a little further back and requires less cutting. The problem with bracing the cut he made is that the rack-pinion steering unit is on the front. You could probably add the required bracing to the back, and front, but I am not sure how that would affect the alignment of the steering rack. It might be possible to drop the steering rack a couple of inches, then reinforce the top of the crossmember, but it wouldn't be a job that could be done in kit form. I think a removable K member is still the best option for a complete swap system. It would require cutting, and welding mounting points in the frame, but then the system itself would be modular. Just thoughts.
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verz
New Member
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Post by verz on Oct 27, 2012 20:58:43 GMT -5
Well back to my portion of the thread, tbss intake and a little extra motivation
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Post by casias on Oct 28, 2012 8:48:50 GMT -5
Looks like a good plan. I am surprised you are using a truck manifold. Are you planning on using drive-by-wire or cable throttle body? Also, for your headers, are you going to weld them up or try to buy a set that is turbo ready? I know JUSTCHEVYTRUCKS has a set that mounts a turbo in the forward position on the passenger side, and uses a connecting tube to cross from driver to passenger side. It would probably have to be cut off and reworked where the passenger side control arm interferes, however.
Keep us posted.
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Post by jsmith564 on Oct 28, 2012 12:08:54 GMT -5
do you think that plastic intake is up for a turbo of that size? I have an aluminum car intake if you want to go that route, i think it would hold up much better then then plastic i have no plans to use the aluminum one if you want it let me know.
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verz
New Member
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Post by verz on Oct 28, 2012 12:44:18 GMT -5
Ill use the stock manifolds, looks like a set of fbody manifolds should clear everything in the forward position from what ive seen.
The tbss manifold will hold up fine as people use ls6 intakes well into the 9s and 24lbs of boost. The turbo looks bigger in the pic, its just a lil ol 68mm but should get me into the 10s as I want.
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verz
New Member
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Post by verz on Oct 28, 2012 12:45:38 GMT -5
What kind, of alum intake manifold, I have a friend that may be interested.
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Post by jsmith564 on Oct 28, 2012 23:25:51 GMT -5
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Post by jsmith564 on Oct 28, 2012 23:34:19 GMT -5
it's made by holly, never been used. paid around $900 couple years ago, but i think you can get them for much less now maybe $650ish i think? can't recall. everything still in the box minus instructions. i don't recall the part number either i think it's 300111 but anyway it's a nice polished intake. i would use it on my camaro but i have square port heads.
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verz
New Member
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Post by verz on Jan 20, 2013 21:14:32 GMT -5
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Post by casias on Jan 20, 2013 22:27:24 GMT -5
Nice. Going with TR-6060?
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verz
New Member
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Post by verz on Jan 21, 2013 8:22:49 GMT -5
Tr-6060 is too rich for my blood so going t56 and even that pushes the budget
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Post by casias on Jan 21, 2013 8:38:06 GMT -5
T56 is an able transmission. I kind of wish we had gone with manual. Might swap it out to develop a spacer, and see how it works.
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verz
New Member
Posts: 15
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Post by verz on Jan 22, 2013 16:05:02 GMT -5
Its an easier swap, not much of a spacer needed at it sits right where the opening is in the stock crossmember. I was able to than cut out the floor and the console are where the cup holders are located for the shifter. Was even able to retain the stock rubber in and outer shift boots with a little work so its quite simple to do even if all you have is a dremel,, though I do recommend a grinder and some cut off wheels for those attempting this. Pics of my modified crossmember(I did a luttle more than needed) The interior finished with TA seats all bolted in
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Post by casias on Jan 22, 2013 17:15:48 GMT -5
Its hard to tell from the picture. Did you weld in a raised area over the existing holes for the original transmission mount?
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